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Plant FAQs
How do I transplant flowers?
First, dig a hole a little larger than the
plant's rootball. Put your hand over the rootball and turn the container over.
Now, you can gently pull off the container with your other hand. Set the
rootball in the hole, cover with loose soil, press down firmly and water
thoroughly.
How long will it take to replant flowers?
If the soil is well prepared, you can
plant a flat of about 36 flowers in about 30 minutes.
What is a perennial?
These flowers will survive winter and
return the next summer. If you plant perennials, you will not have to replant
them next year unless you want to move them to a new location.
What is an annual?
These plants last one season and die out.
Planting
Trees and Shrubs
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Good grass is
important, but it is only one element in a beautiful lawn. Grass can be enhanced
by attractive trees, shrubs, flowers, etc. Although trees and shrubs are hearty
plants, they must be planted correctly to survive.
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The first step in
planting trees and shrubs is to give them plenty of room (see image). Make the
hole in which the tree or shrub is to be planted wide enough for the longest
root to be laid into it without crowding. A rule of thumb is to make the hole in
which the tree or shrub is to be set 50 percent larger than the diameter of the
roots of the plant.
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You can save yourself
considerable cleanup time by piling the soil dug from the hole onto canvas or
plastic sheets. This also prevents the piled dirt from killing or damaging the
grass around the hole.
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It's a good idea to
mix some peat moss into the soil when replacing it around the newly set plant or
tree.
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If the shrub or tree
is in a container, dig the hole at least 2" deeper than the root in the
container. Loosen the soil below the root and add a small amount of plant food.
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Remove the shrub or
tree from the container and lower it into the hole. Refill the hole with
thoroughly loosened soil. Then, form a mound with additional soil around the
edge of the newly dug hole. This provides a basin to hold water until the plant
is thoroughly rooted in the new location.
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If the tree or shrub
is a bare-root plant, unwrap the roots of the tree after the hole is dug and
place it in position. Hold the plant upright with a spading fork while you tamp
the loose dirt around the roots (see image). Always set the shrub or tree about
2" lower in the ground than it was originally set before replanting.
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Use plenty of water
when resetting balled or bare-root plants. Fill the basin around the tree and
let the water soak in thoroughly. After one complete soaking, resoak it again.
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If the tree or shrub
is a bare-root plant, unwrap the roots of the tree after the hole is dug and
place it in position. Hold the plant upright with a spading fork while you tamp
the loose dirt around the roots (see image). Always set the shrub or tree about
2" lower in the ground than it was originally set before replanting.
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Use plenty of water
when resetting balled or bare-root plants. Fill the basin around the tree and
let the water soak in thoroughly. After one complete soaking, resoak it again.
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Water is essential to
a new shrub or tree in the first few days after replanting. Keep the hole wet
during this period. Be sure to build up a basin arrangement to keep water on the
plant for several days. Water your newly planted shrub or tree every week to 10
days during a dry spell.
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After replanting the
tree or shrub, trim it to the shape and size desired. Pruned limbs will heal
faster if you make slanting cuts just above the bud. Spray pruned areas with
special pruning spray immediately after trimming to deter insects and disease
organisms.
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Protect the new plant
against injury and disease by covering the lower part of the tree trunk with a
tree wrap. Start the wrap just above the roots and a little below soil level.
Continue wrapping to just below the lowest limb (see image). Hold the wrap in
position with cord.
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Keep the soil loosened
around the new plant and give it a good start by feeding it lightly with plant
food. Soak the food into the soil by watering (see image below). Feed any new
plant with plant food both in the spring and fall until it reaches maturity.
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You can create
interesting clumps of trees by tying different varieties.
How to Get Your
Plants to Live Long and Prosper
By Chuck Sackett, owner Apple Blossom
Nursery
Whether you have just one plant to plant
or an entire landscape to install, properly planting your garden will result in
a faster and healthier growth rate.
The general gardening rule is that good
gardening is 99% soil preparation. For a single plant, dig the hole 1 1/2 times
the root ball size. Mix one third to one half soil amendment with the native
dirt taken from the hole. Planting mix, potting soil, steer manure or redwood
compost are all good general soil conditioners. There are also some specific
planting mixes on the market such as azalea mix or orchid mix.
In summertime it is a good idea to fill
the hole with water before planting. This will help to keep the soil from drying
out too quickly, in addition to revealing any drainage problems. If water is
too slow to drain, you will want to dig deeper and add some drain rock before
planting. This will prevent the root ball from sitting in constant water which
will injure or kill the plant.
When planting the plant, loosen or cut the
outside roots with a pruner, weeder or knife. This will prevent the roots from
simply growing around the root ball, stunting growth or even resulting in the
demise of the plant. Loosened roots will have a much easier time stretching out
into the surrounding soil, thus speeding up the plant's growth.
After planting, backfill the newly mixed
soil so that the soil level of the plant will be one-half to one inch above the
grade soil level. When the plant is later watered, the soil will compact so
that the plant's soil level will be even with the grade.
When the plant is installed, thoroughly
water it. It's a good idea to water in some Vitamin B-1 rooting hormone which
helps to reduce planting stress or "shock". Also this helps establish new
"feeler" roots which can be harmed during the planting process.
A timed-release fertilizer can be added
now or a general fertilizer can be watered in within the first two weeks. Then
just keep the plant moist on these hot summer days and you should have a plant
that will live long and prosper!
On a larger job it might be easier and
more cost effective to rototill in the amendments throughout the entire planting
area. Also if the ground is extremely hard and dry, you might want to water the
entire area to be worked twenty-four hours ahead of time. This will allow the
water to penetrate deep into the ground making it easier to work with. Watering
the same day that you will be working the garden might result in muddy, messy
conditions.
Finally, if gophers are a concern, use
gopher wire for each plant or invest in some gopher traps. There is a list of
gopher-resistant plants, but the problem is gophers can't read.....
Happy
Gardening!
Chuck
Vegetable Gardens
Nothing is quite as satisfying as a table
filled with delicious vegetables you have grown yourself.
As soon as you know which vegetables you
are going to plant, you are ready to prepare your garden. Be sure to choose a
sunny location away from the root competition of trees and shrubs. Then work
the soil, adding organic matter (organic compost, peat moss, steer manure, rock
powder). We have tester kits available to help you determine deficiencies in
your soil. You may want to consider creating a bed with gopher wire underneath
it.
In planting vegetables, you usually have
two options: planting seeds or setting out young plants like the ones we sell..
Seed planting is far more economical if you compute price per plant, but for a
small garden the purchase of young plants will not represent any great outlay
and really is about the same as buying seeds, since you couldn't use them all.
Realize that the earliest crop usually
will come on plants set out as early as possible in the growing season. Seeds
started indoors just before the ground has warmed up enough in spring to start a
garden will be ready to plant at the very beginning of the growing season.
Follow the spacing suggestions on the seed
packet.
Drip irrigation and Weedblock will make
your life easier. You can set a timer to water at optimum times of the day, and
direct the water just where it should go. If you also put down some Weedblock
landscaping fabric, you will have very little weeding to do!
Bulbs
When should I plant flower bulbs?
Planting times vary, but as a general
rule, earlier in the fall is better than later. Bulbs need to establish strong
root systems, before the frosts of winter set in and the bulbs enter a new cycle
in preparation for spring blooming. Remember to plant bulbs in an area that
drains well and water newly planted bulbs to help those roots get going.
How close should bulbs be planted together?
Groups of bulbs make a much nicer show. To
create greater color impact in the garden, plant clusters of same-color flowers
together in blocks or "bouquets." Generally, larger bulbs should be planted 3"
to 6" apart, smaller bulbs 1" to 2" apart.
Gopher Proof Bulbs
These bulbs contain a substance
gophers don't like and so won't eat. They may shoulder them aside, but
they won't eat them. Other bulbs can be planted in gopher baskets - see
the gopher page.
Allium, Anemone, Daffodil, Freesia, Hyacinth,
Ranunculus, Scilla, Dwarf Iris,
Iris Reticulata, Fritilaria, Galanthus, Leycojum, Ornithonalum, Puschkinia,
Lycoris, Muscari, Narcissus, Chinodosa, Arunthus
Container Gardening
A container makes a nice little growing
area. Aside form the fact that it is gopher-free, containers focus much needed
nutrients and water to the root zone of the plants within. Pots, hanging
baskets, sawn barrels and redwood boxes all make excellent container gardens.
Be sure to provide adequate drainage and resist the temptation to overcrowd.
Unsure of what to plant? Try a few herbs and edible flowers or a collection of
annuals. Clusters of containers on a patio or deck make a dramatic focal point.
Adding an acrylic co-polymer (tiny little
sponges) to your container garden or potting soil will allow you to forget a
watering now and again without drying out your plants. There amazing crystals
absorb 100 times their weight in water and allow for a gradual release if the
plant calls for more moisture.
Glazed ceramic and polymer pots are great
for water retention too. Terra cotta dries out much more quickly than the poly
version.
Hanging Baskets
Victoria B.C. is
famous for its public display of flowers, especially the beautiful hanging
baskets mounted on the lamp posts surrounding the harbor area. The baskets are
loaded with both perennials and annuals, are well maintained and always look
great.
The secret is in the basket itself. They
are moss lined and filled with premium potting soil. The moss not only allows
the soil to retain a certain amount of moisture, but at the same time allows
flowers and plants to grow over a larger area than a regular pot. Most encourage
growth on the outside of the basket by planting small annuals directly into the
side of the basket.
Hanging baskets should be watered every
day. Watering the basket is made easy by installing a small cone mister about
12" above the basket and aiming it down. If you include this basket in your drip
irrigation system it will need a gallon of water per day. We've found that
Eleanor's Fertilizer gives excellent results.
If you've never made a hanging basket you
really should try it. Start with a pre-formed wire basket. Purchase sphagnum
moss (large package) and soak the moss in a 5 gallon bucket. Begin lining the
basket with the moss and partially fill the basket with premium potting soil.
Continue this process until the basket is full of soil and moss. Sprinkle
lightly with water until the basket is saturated and then top off with soil.
Select several types of flowering plants to fill basket. Put a few plants into
the side of the basket, fertilize and hang from an rafter of your house with a
wire hanger.
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